Dualité

Peculiar behavior or in need of sales?

This season, we’re seeing a lot of double takes of designers choosing to showcase in both Montreal and Toronto’s fashion week. Designers like Andy-The Anh, Denis Gagnon, Lucian Matis, and Evan Bidell will present their collections for the second time next week at L’Oreal Fashion Week. I’ve also noticed a few designers who have jumped ships and decided to only show in Toronto, namely RUDSAK, Bodybag by Jude and Morales.

Could it be that the American buyers I had talked to last season were right? Designers are traveling to several tradeshows often showing the same collection again and again, in desperate need of buyers. Yet showcasing in a coveted Fashion Week is expensive, let alone two. Given that Denis Gagnon has been plagued with financial troubles in the past, I wonder how he was able to bounce back to two Fashion Weeks this season.

What does that say of the state of the Canadian fashion retail business? Are Canadian cities not doing enough to stimulate local sales? That in turn, it is forcing local designers to seek their fortunes elsewhere?  New York Fashion Week, the circus that is has become, also generated a lot of concern this season by nearly squeezing London Fashion Week out of the calendar next Fall, and the city has become a viable target for talented emerging London designers. It would seem that Montreal, like London, is unable to keep its designers at home as they’re vying for the bigger fashion weeks where they know the media and buyers will be abundant.

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Let’s just say – thank god for blogs!

The shuffling of the cattle (me and the public) and disorganization at MFW hasn’t changed since last season. It’s amazing how such a large number of people like to consider themselves ultra important therefore are allowed to cut in line and act like the prima donnas that they are. Learning from previous seasons, I repeated “patience is a virtue” to myself as I inched along to my awaited seat.

Andy The-Anh’s show was delayed 30 mins due to crowd mismanagement, but everything was cool once we filtered into the showroom. I was seated near the backstage, up on the last row in the bleachers. MFW figured out that bleacher seats were prime and labeled an entire section as “VIP”. I was not VIP, I was just able to sneak into VIP (nobody really checks except the front row).

As mentioned previously, the show is to raise funds for the Breast Cancer Society. Now, I have nothing against raising funds for cancer, but I do have a problem in trying to associate a fashion show with morose poetry reading. My only question is…with all the money the Breast Cancer Foundation receives every year, wouldn’t you think they would’ve found a cure by now? Or are the money grubbing pharmaceuticals really just jerking our chains in saying there isn’t a cure for cancer? That’s for another blog….

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MFW officially kicks off Oct 13th with Aqua Di Lara at Koko Restaurant at the Opus Hotel, corner Sherbrooke and St-Laurent. Though most of the shows are for industry people only, MFW has made available two shows where you can buy tickets to attend.

La Diva

Laboratoire Creatif is a union of over 100 local designers who share the same facilities to confect their creations. This season they will be collaborating to raise funds for women living with breast cancer. The show will happen Oct 16th at 7pm at Marche Bonsecours.

Tickets are $30 and can be purchased at Admission.com, type in “La Diva” in the search engine.

Glamour

Andy The-Anh will be showcasing his Spring collection at MFW for an event called “Glamour” where all profits will be donated to the Quebec Breast Cancer Foundation.

**Edit** The date for Andy’s show is Oct 14th at 9pm at Marche Bonsecours.

Regular tickets are $25 which will allow you to see the new collection and a chance to win a raffle

VIP tickets are $150 which will guarantee you a reserved seating inside the the runway show, a complimentary brooch by Andy-The Anh, admission to their private cocktail hour and a chance to win the raffle.

I know I said I wasn’t going to go to MFW, which is sort of true. I’ll actually be attending only this show and no one else’s since I’ve never seen Andy’s runway show and I might as well see one. I’ll be seated up in the back bleachers (where they have the best view after the front row seats, anywhere else has a pretty craptacular view).

Fall is just coming around the corner everyone, and you know what that means: fashion week madness for a month and a half. Of course as a small time blogger, one can only count to be so lucky to attend a local fashion week at all. Those who are full time fashion journalist get to do the merry-go-round the globe in four (sometimes five) different countries: New York, Milan, London, Paris and Tokyo.

On our Canadian end, we have Montreal, L’Oreal (Toronto), and Vancouver Fashion Weeks – no surprise here. The obvious difference between say NY Fashion Week and one of ours is the scale and size of the shows. NY has approximately over 70 designers last I counted, while as MFW had like – 12 designers to showcase. Also, I’ve noticed that the Canadian designers seem to showcase more so on functionality than full on glamour like the rest of the world. On one hand, this is good for buyers who own small boutiques and want to get past the flashing in fashion and get down to saleability. We’re also in an economically advantageous status as the US economy keeps going down the drain, American buyers are less likely to pick the more expensive European brands and might even give a break to local Canadian talent because – well, they’re cheaper, I’m afraid to say.

Tickets to Attend Fashion Week

This seems to be relatively new to the scene of L’Oreal and MFW for a couple of years. Both websites have posted possibilities to buy tickets to see fashion shows, unprecedented a few years ago as fashion week is usually a very restricted “media and professionals only” circle. My guess is that there are two reasons for it:

1. Because Canadian Fashion Weeks aren’t as popular, media and buyers don’t fill up the entire seating chart of many shows. This I can attest, when there are smaller, unknown brands showcasing, it’s sad to see these seats half filled. Selling tickets will fill those seats and will generate extra income in the process.
2. Fashion is a hot commodity thanks to magazines, reality shows, websites and blogs. The instantaneous 24/7 fashion wire can’t even compare to the “real deal” experience of a real fashion show. Going to one of these things is like going to see a concert of your favorite band, nothing compares to the real thing. Organizers know this, and they will play that card this year.

The big guns over at NY, London, Milan and Paris don’t need to sell tickets because people are just fighting to even have rights to get in in the first place. Everyone is just dying to see these shows, and bless the lucky souls who know others in the business to attend these prestigious fashion shows, they are something else all together.

This blogger is staying home this year

While the chances of bloggers attending fashion shows and events have risen over the last couple of years, fashion week is still a little out of our reach. But this may now slowly change with the likes of Inside The Tents making an initiative in helping bloggers get to these events. I’ve already attended 2 MFWs and quite frankly don’t think I’ll miss it much since I won’t be attending this year. It’s long hours, crowded, expensive (the food), and all too much brouhaha for a 20 minute show. I’ve only enjoyed 2-3 collections but there really isn’t much to say about them except describing their looks. That’s all what fashion week is about – describing a collection. 95% of the time it’s “fabulous” and a season’s “must-have”. We’re not really told why certain designers didn’t showcase this year or last year, most of the time it’s due to money constraints as they can’t afford to show at fashion week. Plus it’s a hassle to drag the numerous (useless) swag they give you, what am I to do with a plastic martini shaker and made-by-crocs shoes that don’t fit?

I suppose it’s another story if I were to go to the bigger venues since the usual suspects usually turn out more interesting pieces for show. I’d be happy to just attend one of each of the big shows just once in my life and I’d be happy enough.

I’ll be watching MFW from the comfort of my own home, in pajamas, lying on my couch with my laptop with pepsi and chips. Now that’s luxe.

Honestly, I don’t see much of a point in taking pictures of an event that I surely can’t do justice with my little point and shoot camera, but it gives you a basic idea of what it is. Mainly, it’s cocktail lounge, gift bags, crowds of people, and the runway shows. I apologize if I make it sound like it was a boring event, but Fashion Week isn’t as glamourous or as exciting as it sounds, perhaps I’m too jaded. Even spotting tv personalities was as banal as spotting the person next to them. I’ve met celebrities before, being star struck isn’t really my thing. What IS exciting is meeting people in the industry willing to talk and joke with you during the breaks.

“Le Showroom” I saw a CBC reporter on the scene here.

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Day 3 for Montreal Fashion Week had to be the most dressed up crowd I’ve seen. I even spruced myself up after I decided to skip out on the [dress to] Kill Magazine cocktail party (sorry folks, I didn’t feel like going to it right after a grueling day at work). I showed up just in time to get in line for the Soia & Kyo show, and everywhere you looked it was crowded with people. I saw a friend of mine who attended the previous show, Telio, and wondered how she was able to get in.

In fact I saw a lot of people that weren’t media nor buyers attending the show, most likely invited guests, but they came in huge numbers. Being sandwiched on a narrow walkway was so hectic the managing crew were directing the crowd to go to the cocktail lounge before the next show started.

Soia & Kyo is a brand known for their outerwear for the young and stylish, I mostly recognized their double breasted coats and affinity for big buttons. The room was filled to the brim with about 20 more standing in the back. Overall I liked it, but questioned the quality, I saw some buttons looking a little iffy there.

Figuring it was useless to get a ticket by going up and down the stairs, I was told that people will let me in with the pass that I had so that was neat. I don’t bother sitting down the front unless it was the front row, in fact my friend and I always managed to pick a spot up in the back near an alleyway. Our view was great, so it was the next best thing than being in the third or second row with people’s heads in the way. I noticed this guy who always sat by himself, impeccably dressed, figured out this seating trick too. Smart cookie.

Rudsak, an outerwear and leatherwear company, started off late since there were troubles in getting the crowd under control as they were anxious to get in, but in the end I think everyone enjoyed the show. I overheard a woman saying that she loved fashion but didn’t like it when designers were being too eccentric and was relieved this show had stuff that she could see herself wearing. My friend told me that everything looked good for this show because it was very commercial. I’m starting to understand that commercial stuff = good looking clothes (most of the time anyway). So where does that leave other designers I wonder. Acquired taste?
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Don’t worry folks, I haven’t forgotten about you. Several posts are in the works for the blog, I just haven’t had time to edit and add pictures yet, so sit tight.

I have a bunch of updates for you coming up, and in a couple of weeks I’ll be attending fashion week. 3 whole days being holed up in a building for 4-6 hours at a time on top of going to work from 9am. There will be much to talk about, that is if I don’t drop dead from exhaustion first.

Coming Up:

• Magazine review for one of my favorites: Clear Magazine.
• Label Report: Michael Kors, Teenflo, and a tailoring spot called Charles Le Tailleur.
• Show review for the annual Casa Cares fashion show featuring a slew of designers including Dinh Ba, Rush Couture and Aqua Di Lara.
• Montreal Fashion Week press releases concerning several magazine launch parties.
• Most likely exhausted from Fashion Week, I’ll be giving the “spa” a first try, see how those Swedish massages fare.
• March 25th is Gloss’ latest issue! Hopefully it’ll feature my interview with jewelry designer Allison Sklar.
• Onsite reports being at Fashion Week, observing the crowds, and wondering how I’ll keep my sanity throughout these long hours. No show reviews, that’s reserved for Gloss.

In essence, I have a lot to say but not enough time to write them down!

A lot of casual onlookers complain about two things when they see fashion shows from the capitals: elaborate clothes aren’t practical for real life and the outfits are too expensive for the average consumer. How in the world do they break even at the end of each season?

Again, fashion shows are mere theatrics for magazine and newspaper editors to talk about the creativity of the designers. But like yesterday’s Wall Street Journal article, the deal breakers are in the showrooms.

Showrooms, in case you didn’t know, are where buyers get the styles they want for their stores. Like say, Holt Renfrew is in search of a new crop of designer clothes, they visit showrooms where participating designers set up booths with their collections for buyers to see. Each store has their own set of standards on what to offer their clients, so just because you’re in love with a bunch of Chanel or Givenchy outfits doesn’t mean your favorite stores will carry them. Many of the runway looks are scaled down in showrooms and price points affect their sale factor. If a designer wants to sell the shoes for $800, one buyer might say it’s too expensive for their clients to spend.

The details in RTW Fall/Winter 08 are intricate, theatrical, beautiful, and all for show.
From left: Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Prada.

That’s why you’ll rarely find the looks magazine gush about in your high end stores, because they were either deemed too expensive to sell or not salable at all.

Generally, a mere 20% to 30% of the designer clothes sold in stores come from the runway. The rest come from so-called pre-collections — clothes sold ahead of fashion week — that are less dramatic, made to be sold rather than photographed. But store buyers still want to buy from the runways — partly to maintain good relations with designers, but also to offer eye-catching looks for store displays. Looks that have walked the runways still have a certain cachet.

For Montreal Fashion Week though, I’ve noticed designers taking on a different approach. They opt to show wearable designs (save for a few like Helmer) on the runway rather than elaborate pieces. Thus comparing runway photos from Montreal and the more commercial Paris, London, New York and Milan runways, Montreal lacks star power. However, the majority are wearable, facilitating the job for buyers looking on. From my experience last year, I saw a lot of office looks such as cropped jackets, knee length skirts, vibrant colors, pant suits, streetwear, denim, etc. Perhaps it could explain why stores like Ogilvy and Holt Renfrew don’t hold the lines from some of our local designers because the targeted demographic isn’t focused on the wealthier Montrealers but mass market consumers, where the money is.

This type of method on Montreal’s part is quite smart, however, if they wish to attract international buyers who travel to many different cities, I would think the buyers would expect the same grade of showmanship on the Montreal runway. I’ll be touring the showroom floors at the end of the month, and will report back on my observations. With some luck I’m hoping to talk to some buyers and ask what they’re looking for.

Quote credit: The WallStreet Journal, Christina Binkley
Image credit: Style.com

This doesn’t actually happen here during Montreal Fashion Week.

People are always curious to know what it feels like to attend fashion shows during Fashion Week. As many of you know, Fashion Week is reserved for designers, buyers, VIP clients like the rich and famous, and of course the media blitz of cameras, editors, reporters and journalists. It’s a huge media event and every one wants in on the action of the glitz and glamour.

A long time dream of mine was to attend such a coveted event, and it has come true just last fall. I will share with you a brief scoop of my first experience at Montreal Fashion Week last fall as a writer for Gloss. This will probably dispel a lot of misconceptions of what Fashion Week really is.

Media Coverage
Working for a magazine, newspaper or television requires media accreditation, which means getting a media pass to attend Fashion Week. There are forms to fill out and background checks are done to make sure that the people applying to be media are legitimate. Because most collections are not ready for public distribution and they want to reduce the risk of knock offs taking place before they’re able to deliver the goods. This is why Fashion Weeks are held 6 months prior to the actual season to give time for manufacturers to produce the collections for retail, as well as giving magazines time to spruce up their Fall or Spring issues.

Once you get your pass, you’re bombarded with folders containing press releases from each designer, inauguration meetings, cocktail hours, and a lot of schmoozing. Fashion Week isn’t held in one single venue specifically, there were many off site events going on during the week, some held their own fashion shows in their private boutiques, and there were a lot of after parties in the hippest clubs.

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